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Amigurumi

Adorable and fun crochet characters. Find free amigurumi patterns for animals, dolls and more, with easy step-by-step instructions for all skill levels.

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Five crocheted amigurumi toys — a frog, bear, rabbit with a carrot, lilac octopus and penguin — sitting together in soft natural light.

Patterns

Amigurumi patterns

Stuffed characters worked in a spiral. Every guide gives the hook, yarn and finished height so the result is repeatable.

1 guide

A crocheted toy octopus with a mustard-yellow head, cream tentacles and embroidered eyes, standing on a wooden surface.

Crochet Amigurumi

Crochet octopus: eight legs, nothing to sew on

An eight-legged octopus worked in one continuous spiral. The legs are chain curls worked straight into the base, so there are no limbs to…

BeginnerHook: 3.0 mm (US D/3) — assumed for the yarn below, not tested hereYarn: DK cotton, about 20 g for the body and legs (assumed); a smooth cotton hides the stuffing better than a hairy oneabout 3 min read

Hub notes

What belongs in this hub

What belongs here: animals, characters and shaped objects worked in continuous spiral rounds and stuffed. Each guide gives the hook, yarn, body schedule, finished height, stuffing weight and a note about small parts. Anything intended for a child under three, or anything that has to survive a washing machine, needs construction decisions this hub has not documented yet.

How we label and test guides

Scale

Pick the size band before the pattern

Typical ranges seen across amigurumi patterns — not measurements of our projects.

4–6cm

Mini charm

Fine or sport weight, 2.0–2.5 mm hook, roughly one hour per piece. Fiddly to turn and stuff, ideal for keychains and bag charms.

8–12cm

Pocket toy

DK weight, 2.5–3.5 mm hook, two to four hours. The easiest band to learn shaping in: big enough to see the stitches, small enough to finish.

15–22cm

Shelf size

Worsted weight, 3.5–4.5 mm hook, five to eight hours. Limbs and details add up; count rounds or the arms will not match.

Before you start

Safety and materials, in that order

  • Safety eyes are push-fit plastic and can be pulled out. For anything given to a baby or a child under three, embroider the eyes in yarn instead — or leave them off entirely.
  • Stuffing: use washable polyester fibrefill. Add it in small pieces so the fabric stays smooth; overstuffing opens the stitches and shows the filling through the gaps.
  • Yarn that does not fuzz: cotton and smooth acrylics show the stitch definition that makes a face read correctly. Fluffy yarns blur shapings.
  • A stitch marker in the first stitch of each round. Spiral rounds have no visible join, so an unmarked start is how round counts go wrong.
  • Tapestry needle for closing and weaving in firmly — a face is filled by its embroidered details, so loose tails will show.

“Gauge is not a formality here: change the hook and a 10 cm head becomes a 14 cm head.”

Why the numbers matter

Amigurumi shapes are built from counted increases and decreases, so a different gauge does not resize the character — it distorts it. Where a guide gives a gauge, work a 10 cm swatch before starting.

Reference images

What the shapes look like when they are finished

Reference images of crocheted toys, useful for proportion, face placement and how firmly a piece is stuffed. They are reference, not projects made on this site.

  • Crocheted cactus toys in terracotta pots on a wooden bench, with flowering cacti behind them.
    Potted cactus toys. A plant is the friendliest first amigurumi: a cylinder and a sphere, no face to get wrong, and the pot hides the last round.
  • Two small crocheted chicks in rustic woven nests, with wrapped sweets behind them.
    Two chicks from one pattern in two colourways. Safety eyes are pushed through the fabric and cannot be pulled back out, so they go on before the last rounds close.
  • A crocheted carrot character with an orange body, green leaves and a smiling embroidered face, sitting on the edge of a dark wooden table.
    A carrot character: a cone closed with decreases, leaves added over the opening, face embroidered last. Small enough to finish in one sitting.

Start here

Learn the four moves in order

  1. A ring you can pull closed

    Start with a magic ring or a chain-two ring, then work single crochet into it. A centre that will not close leaves a hole in every toy you make afterwards.

  2. Increases and invisible decreases

    Two stitches in one opening widens a round; working two together closes it. Learn the invisible decrease early — it is the difference between a smooth sphere and a dimpled one.

  3. A sphere, then a cylinder

    A ball is a round of increases, straight rounds, then decreases. Once that pattern makes sense, arms, legs and ears are variations on it.

  4. Assembly and finishing

    Pin parts before sewing, count the stitch where each piece attaches so the two sides match, and stuff firmly enough that the shape does not collapse when the last round closes.

About this hub

Small stuffed figures, written with the numbers that decide the result: starting ring, increase schedule, body height, stuffing weight and eye choice. Cotton and cotton-blend yarn are assumed, because firmness and stitch definition matter more here than softness.

What belongs here: animals, characters and shaped objects worked in continuous spiral rounds and stuffed. Each guide gives the hook, yarn, body schedule, finished height, stuffing weight and a note about small parts. Anything intended for a child under three, or anything that has to survive a washing machine, needs construction decisions this hub has not documented yet.

Honest status

What this hub still needs

  • Nothing here has been craft-tested: no one has worked these patterns end to end.
  • Eye and small-part safety is described but not checked against any toy-safety standard.
  • No stuffing-weight table, so grams are estimates that shift with how firmly you work.
  • No left-handed or joined-round variation documented yet.