Not yet craft-tested. This entry has no swatch behind it: the method is standard, and the gauge figures are typical ranges for the stitch rather than numbers measured here.
What the stitch is
Half double crochet sits between single crochet and double crochet in height — roughly 1.5 times the height of a single crochet, about two thirds of a double crochet — and makes a denser fabric than double crochet with more drape than single crochet. It is the workhorse for warm hats, substantial blankets and anything that has to hold its shape without going stiff.
How to work it
- Yarn over, then insert the hook into the next stitch.
- Yarn over and pull up a loop. Three loops are on the hook.
- Yarn over once more and pull through all three loops at once.
That third step is the entire difference from double crochet, which works its loops off two at a time. It is also where the stitch goes wrong: pulling three loops through with a tight grip gives a stiff, leaning stitch, so let the hook do the pulling instead of dragging the loops down the shaft.
Rows and turning chains
- Multiple — any number of stitches works in plain hdc. Most patterns allow two chains for the turning chain, some use one. Where hdc is the base of a lace pattern, the multiple is stated explicitly, usually as a multiple plus one.
- Turning chain — chain 2 is the convention. Whether that chain counts as the first stitch of the row is exactly what makes hdc borders look uneven: decide before the first row and keep the same decision for the whole piece.
- Height — between the two stitches either side of it, which is why it smooths a border worked over mixed stitch heights.
The third loop
On the reverse of an hdc fabric there is a third loop lying horizontally behind the familiar two. Working into that loop alone, instead of into the top two, tilts the fabric slightly and leaves a braided ridge that reads as knitted. It is the standard trick for hat brims and cuffs, and it is easier to learn while you are learning the stitch than to add to it later.
Gauge
Gauge depends on yarn, hook and grip, so these are typical ranges for the stated pairing rather than measurements taken on this site:
| Yarn weight |
Hook |
Typical hdc tension |
| Worsted / aran |
5.0 mm (US H/8) |
12–14 stitches and 10–11 rows per 10 cm |
| DK / light worsted |
4.0 mm (US G/6) |
14–17 stitches and 12–14 rows per 10 cm |
Names and symbol
US half double crochet is the UK half treble, abbreviated htr; they are the same stitch. The chart symbol is the same T shape used for double crochet, with a single crossing stroke through the stem. The US to UK names table shows where this stitch sits in the two naming systems.
Where it is worth using
- Warm hats and slipper soles, where the fabric should stand up rather than flop.
- Blankets that need to grow quickly but still feel substantial.
- Borders, where its height bridges a short and a tall stitch without a visible step.
- Bag sides and keychain pieces where single crochet would be dense but slow, as long as the tension is kept tight enough to hide any filling.
What is still missing from this entry
- No measured swatch, so no gauge figure on this page was recorded here.
- The symbol follows the common convention but is not checked against any national chart standard.
- No step photography or video: the entry is text plus one SVG symbol.